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Life at the Whaling

Source: Shetland ex-Whalers Association

Life at the whaling was characterised by work. People were there to work hard and they took time to enjoy small breaks when the work allowed. Conditions whether on board ships or on shore were basic but comfortable enough to stay for a while! Workers were catered for by teams who worked in the mess (kitchens) and in the laundry.

In spare moments and down time the whalers had some good forms of entertainment. Read below about their sporting events, music nights, crafting activities and even their cinemas!

Although a dangerous industry, deaths and accidents were not so common. Workers were aware of how to stay safe and tried their best to maintain this given the conditions. Sadly, some accidents and deaths did occur and when they did, the effects were felt strongly by the community.

Workers enjoy time off together. Source: Eric Stevenson

Grytviken whaling station after abandonment. The workers' accommodation buildings are in the foreground at the back of the whaling station. The Manager's Villa, food stores and Foremen's barracks are in the upper left-hand side. Source: Nigel Bonner

Living in Grytviken

Workers living on a whaling station were quite separated from the managers and administrative staff. In Grytviken, the workers lived in accommodation at the back of the factory and towards the church. Managers and administrative staff lived closer to the food stores, bakery and coffee roastery, as well as the Slop Chest, the only place to spend your money.

A special villa was built for the senior members of the whaling station staff and visiting family members. The house was centrally heated, electric light was provided by the hydro-generator and there was a telephone connection to the factory. In 1911 it was extended and a note from a resident describes it having ‘luxuriant potted plants’, and of ‘eight course meals being served by a butler’. In 1914 the Villa burned down, to be replaced the following season by the current building which now houses the museum.

Grytviken Manager's Villa and Foremen's Barracks

"Ageing secretary Vold meets us at the quay and takes us up to the ‘castle’ (where the king and queen live). It is C. A. Larsen’s house. The lady of the house greets us formally and welcomes us. She is very charming and polite. We are led into a tastefully furnished living room where a good, new piano stands out in one corner. It is here we are introduced to the family and the ‘palace's’ other in habitants"

Letter from Reverend Kristen Løken, April 1912

The Manager’s House, Leith Harbour. Source: John Alexander

Source: Thomas Binnie

Women, children and families

According to census records, there were never more than 12 women living on South Georgia at once. For those who were managers or who worked at King Edward Point, there was a chance to take your wife and family with you, and perhaps even a pet! Captain Carl Anton Larsen, founder of Grytviken, often had his family, and even a housekeeper staying with them, on South Georgia. In reality, most men who went to the whaling had to leave their family 8,000 miles away and it may be up to 18 months before they saw them again. 

Although it was a strange place for many women and children to get used to, life had to go on as normal. Children were homeschooled by their parents and helped to be cared for by other people from the whaling station. Unlike children growing up outside of South Georgia, children who grew up here had first hand experience of living near a whaling station. Learning about the wildlife around the area and learning to ski in the winter, it surely would have been a fascinating place to spend some formative years.

Accounts of women living on South Georgia, specifically at King Edward Point, were written about by Nan Brown (Antarctic Housewife) and Beverly McLeod (In the Shadow of Shackleton’s Cross). Nan Brown documented her life at King Edward Point in the mid-1950s, she came to South Georgia with her husband, George, a wireless operator. Her accounts are humorous and interesting, contrasting her attempts to be a “normal” housewife in South Georgia, with the incredible experience of living there. Her powerful writing highlights the highs and lows in trying to live a normal life in an irregular place. Colourfully bringing to life the characters who were living on South Georgia at the time.

A whale being processed at Grytviken, 1959. Source: South Georgia Museum

What was the population of South Georgia during the years of whaling?

Generally it was somewhere around 1000 people on the island, except when there was a break during the Second World War and populations fell hugely. The number of women on the island was low, only the Whaling Station Manager or the Government staff were able to be accompanied by their wives and children.

How many people were employed?

1,847 people were employed by Christian Salvesen in the 1956/1957 season at South Georgia. This included all whaling expeditions, Leith Harbour station and floating factory ships. With 45% being British crew.

What is the population now?

Now, populations during the summer reach around 30 and in the winter there are 10 people who stay at King Edward Point and four people at Bird Island.

How many people visit South Georgia now?

In the 2024/2025 season we had over 15,000 visitors to the South Georgia Museum all of whom arrived by ship or boat.

“It was mostly Norwegians. There was a time when I could count on one hand how many British engineers there were. That was the case on Salvesen’s expeditions anyway. We had an affinity with the Norwegians for many years. I still go to Norway now and with the club we still visit Norway. We got on well with them and most of the guys spoke English anyway, so you didn’t have to learn Norwegian, but a lot of them did because they’d been there for so long. There are some people in the club who had been at the whaling a lot longer than I had, who are fluent in Norwegian”

Geoffrey Smethurst , Radio Operator, 1947

The Ten Commandments (South Georgia Version) written by William MacKay, a whaler who overwintered at Leith Harbour, 1956. South Georgia Museum

Source: Eric Stevenson

Accommodation

The shore stations were industrial towns. Roughly 400 men lived and worked in Grytviken during the summer season, dropping down to 90 in the winter season. They all lived in close quarters in the barracks, with up to eight men in a bunk room. Working on a station for eight months or more, the men took the time to decorate their living quarters to make them as homely as possible.

Source: Hvalfangstmuseet, Sandefjord

Grytviken workers' barracks and mess

Leith Harbour at night. Source: John Alexander

Hospital surgery. Source: John Alexander

At Leith Harbour, some of the jobs required that the workers live upstairs of the building they were working in, such as the hospital or laundry. It was vital that the men working in the factory had these services to care for them and to cater for them.

Leith Harbour barracks

Scott Christie and Donnie Williamson in their Leith Harbour Accommodation with a Kurer Combi shortwave radio on the side table. Source: Shetland ex-Whalers Association

New accommodations were built when it was required to increase workforces. Certain accommodations also had better standards than others, with some newer or larger rooms being preferable. Unless you were high ranking, your room would have been shared with others. Subsequently, a whaler’s bunk, whether on a shore station, factory ship or whale catcher ship, was all the space he had to himself. In their bunkrooms they often had tables and chairs, a space to sit and socialise with bunkmates. Radios were also bought and could be tuned into BBC Overseas and other long distance radio stations.

The Ringdal Room in South Georgia Museum houses a recreation of whaler’s accommodation on the island in the mid-1900s. Whalers were known to be very houseproud, and the room reflects the limited but clean and orderly space that they had. Source: South Georgia Museum

Keeper and whaler in Leith Harbour Slop Chest. Source: Shetland ex-Whalers Association

The Slop Chest

The store at whaling stations were called the Slop Chest, or Slappen in Norwegian. This building was originally the Grytviken Slop Chest. It was restored and converted into our post office in 2014.

The Slop Chest was the whalers’ main source for everything they needed. Here they could buy all manner of things: clothing, toiletries, photography and skiing equipment, sweets, tobacco and stationery. Customers would usually pay on account and have to settle their bill at the end of the season. The store did not sell alcohol, but cologne and even hair oil were popular substitutes until the reason for their popularity was discovered!